Monday, July 9, 2012

Orcas Island (hills!)

After breakfast at Mary Ann's Cafe in Anacortes we biked to catch the ferry that went first to Lopez and on to Orcas Island. Must say the Washington State Ferries don't "hold a candle" to the BC ferries. You really appreciate the food served back home because there isn't any on the ferries down here!
Once we checked in to our heritage hotel we were ready for a shared lunch, Huli huli chicken burger. Norm and I never did find the Hawaiian connection but still it was good. (note to Colleen- we share meals here not because we are really cheap but because the meals are huge and we're seniors on a pension:)
Our room is decorated in an early period style which means no TV, no phone, no sink, no toilet, no blinds, no air conditioning.... the shower and toilet are down the hallway in separate rooms. But it all works. There is only one other room occupied so we have the shower rooms and toilets to ourselves. We just have to remember to put on clothing in the night when heading down the hallway.



That's me on the front steps of the Orcas Hotel and our room is to the left above the flag. We sat on our little near-by balcony and took in the view, read and had cheese and crackers and beer.


This is the view from our room. We get to watch the ferries coming and going. But before relaxing Norm thinks we should discover a bit of the island. It is 3 in the afternoon, really hot out and I am ready to relax. But being a "team player" and not wanting to be a winer I agree to do more biking. We head north then west to Westsound, a very sweet bay with little commercial activity.



But getting there involved many hills, some we actually had to walk up. One thing about Norman is he is never critical of getting off the bike and walking. Once back at our hotel I decide to check out the bus schedule for tomorrow. But by morning I was ready to bike across the island to Eastsound.
Breakfast at the hotel and off we biked the 9 miles to Eastsound. There were hills but we walked only twice, a true feeling of accomplishment once done!



Here is Eastsound's labyrinth right near the beach and local Episcopal church. We checked out the beach, the local tourist stores, book store (of course) and lunched at the Kitchen serving organic local foods.



Norm is checking our map for the next adventure. And here is what he saw from the beach.




After lunch Norm insists we go even further north to the far side of Orcas. We can almost see Victoria from here.



And for those of you that might have visited Eastsound 30+ years ago, here is the same Outlook Inn built in 1915.



And check out the map of Orcas Island showing exactly where we are and where we've been!



We are now back at the hotel enjoying a couple of beers. They do taste good. Tomorrow off to Friday Harbor and on to Sidney. So far we have biked about 257 miles. And add Sidney to Metchosin and we will have done about 300 miles, that's around 480 km. Feels damn good!

Location:Orcas Island

Saturday, July 7, 2012

Good time on Guemes

Started the day by walking two blocks to the local farm market for fresh pastries, a breakfast burrito and coffee for Norm. Next thing I know we are in the old train station listening to a talk on saving energy in food purchasing (buy local and in season or grow your own), food storage (freeze, can, dry whatever is in season for the winter), food preparing (use a pressure cooker) and then we snuck out. Interesting presentation by Martha Hunt who we actually met on our bike ride into town. She stopped us (we were all on bikes), welcomed us to Anacortes, asked if we had a place to stay and was all-round friendly. Turns out she was giving the talk on saving energy. Martha spend less than $20 a month on electricity and even less on gas. And when we walked into the talk she recognized us as the couple on bikes from Victoria. I was impressed!
We had other adventures to do today so we got our bikes and headed towards Guemes Island. On the way we had to take pictures of the Causland Park here in Anacortes. It is one of the ugliest parks I have ever seen. And what is worse it was designed by a Canadian, John Baptiste Lepage! It was built between 1919 and 1921 as a tribute to Anacortes veterans of the First World and later vets of other wars.






While we were taking pictures a group was setting up for a wedding in the park.



The stone work, done by volunteers, is so unique and unusual, three different colors of stone in strange wavy patterns, vaguely art nouveau. But the day was sunny and the gardens around are beautiful so probably a good place to get married.



On we biked a short distance to the ferry terminal for Guemes Island. Not that we needed more biking but this island is only eight minutes away and seemed like a fun place to spend an afternoon. We started with lunch at the general store (only restaurant on the island), sharing a toasted bacon, lettuce and tomato sandwich with fries. Then Norm led the way around the island. Empty country road but since it is an island, it had its share of hills. We walked a few of them but it was great coming down the other side. On the north side was a lovely beach where you can see Mt. Baker in the distance, a gorgeous day! It looks tiny in the photo here, but it really loomed across the water.



Around the whole island and back to the ferry terminal for ice cream took us about two hours. Well worth the effort.



Sat on the beach waiting for the ferry and bike home.



Check the totem pole coming out of Norm's head, very creative.




Finished off our stay in Anacortes with a nice dinner at Adrift, a seafood restaurant. Tomorrow we're back on the bikes for our last stop, Orcas Island.

Location:Anacortes

Friday, July 6, 2012

Chuckanut to Anacortes

Casa Valentina was our Bed and Breakfast in Fairhaven. The owner was a little scattered but the place was fine. No wireless, a little warm being upstairs, but she offered us tea on arrival and made a delicious omelette filled with olives, cheese, bacon, spinach and peppers. Unfortunately she started the breakfast with sliced strawberries -- and bananas! Norm was polite and ate some, not me!
We started out on our bike ride to Anacortes with a few misses. We had trouble finding the real interurban trail leading out of Fairhaven, along the 1920s route of electric streetcars, received incorrect directions from at least four people and got on the wrong road. Never to give up, we finally found the Chuckanut Drive and then the trail! Beautiful pathway through the woods, like the Galloping Goose. Eventually it ends and we have to do the road. Fortunately the road was not very busy, probably only a dozen cars passed us. It is a narrow and steep road but felt more comfortable than last time we biked it.






Here we are at a lookout on the Chuckanut. You can almost see Victoria from here, at least the snow-covered Olympics across the strait. Now down the hill to Edison. A really small town but we managed to hit three stores! First a delicious lunch at Slough Foods of fresh salad, grilled ham and cheese baguette, a Bellingham Bay IPA for Norm and orangeade for Mary. Next to the Edison bakery, Bread Farm, for a carrot cake muffin with grand masala spice and a rhubarb lemon bundt cake. We finished off with tea and coffee and a pear almond tart at another bakery cafe. Now it seems like with all this biking I should be losing weight. But you may notice that food is one of the highlights everyday (beside the actual biking) and weight loss may be only in my dreams!



A little art work from Edison. Edward R. Murrow was born nearby in Blanchard, where the Chuckanut Drive comes down to flat land. Who knew? (Norm did.) Did you know Ed had brothers named Dewey and Lacey? Now you know why he was the famous brother.
The rest of the bike ride was a little harder with my full tummy and the warm weather. We arrived in Anacortes by 2:30 feeling pretty good. We had biked about 37 miles today. Our total so far is over 200 miles, which had us feeling like pretty good touring cyclists -- until we rode into town with a young man on a bike pulling a single-wheeled BOB trailer. He had been riding for 57 days from NEW YORK! And he was planning to head south to LA and then ride back to New York, probably 7,000 miles in total. Our 200 didn't seem such a big deal. But we're having fun.
We walked about Anacortes, took 20 minutes and planned our next day. Tomorrow the local farm market and a little ferry ride to Guemes Island plus some local sites that you almost need to see to believe. Pictures tomorrow.


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Location:Anacortes

Thursday, July 5, 2012

An explosive trip

Starting our day in Abbotsford at the Super Save Motel included breakfast. It's a good thing we are into carbs since fresh fruit and protein were not on the menu, instead we ate cereal and bagels. We then set out for Chilliwack to visit Nick and Darlene, Norm's brother for lunch. The good part is that the road was flat and there was little traffic. It did take us 2 1/2 hours when we missed one of the turnoffs.



Norm refers to this as me being outstanding in my field, mainly of blueberries and corn. As you bike along the road you can hear what sounds like gun fire. Turns out the farmers are trying to scare away the birds from the fields. Hope it worked.


Once at the Gidneys we were treated to a lunch of homemade chicken noodle soup, fresh buns and chocolate chip cupcakes. Well worth the ride!





Nick and Darlene in front of one of the signs made at Gidney Signs. I think the hop company sign had a typo, so they hung it outside as a sample of his work. The Haas company once farmed hundreds of acres of hops for brewing beer, including just out back of their place, but no longer are in the hoppy business.
We really didn't want to cheat but since going to Chilliwack wasn't the direction we are heading, Nick gave us a ride back to Abbotsford to the Sumas border crossing so we could head south (which saved us over two hours and 30+ Kmart of pedaling). South we biked, heading for Lynden, Washington, a really really Dutch community.



It was July 4th so we thought we might see some parades, party happenings or fireworks. Instead the town was absolutely dead. It looked like a ghost town. Here is Norm on the main street connecting with his Dutch roots.
So after some discussion we decided to keep on biking to Bellingham. Again the road was flat and straight with wide shoulders and the weather perfect, late afternoon sun. As we biked it was amazing how often we heard explosions, again sounded like gunshots. It was people setting off firecrackers all day long.
We even saw two discount firework outlets with line ups to buy fireworks! Could make for a very interesting 4th of July.
We continued on past Bellingham to Fairhaven, a historical town, the first settlement started by Dirty Dan Harris in 1853. Finding accommodations was not so easy, little to chose from. We were very lucky to find a room at the Village Inn for only one night. It was wonderful! Big room, bathtub, balcony overlooking the harbour where the fireworks were happening and it included breakfast. More carbs, waffles this time.



We showered and headed out to dinner to Mambo Italiano, pasta and pizza. After biking about 70 kms today, we felt we deserved it.
Looking from our balcony you could see at least a dozen displays of fireworks going on across the bay, towards Bellingham and just in front of our hotel. It was unbelievable how many places we're celebrating. And it continued until midnight! There were miniature displays of fireworks from miles away across the bay, like bright little flowers blooming for just a second.









Inspite o the fireworks, we slept well, and started our day with a breakfast of waffles, yogurt and fruit. We had to find a place to stay for tonight and again lucked into a B & B near by. Dropped off our bikes and packs and this time we went walking into old Bellingham, no Bellis Fair for us:)



Can you see Norman Gidney right in the middle? Check out the NG below.



Tomorrow the Chuckanut Drive to Anacortes and on Sunday to Orcas Island.


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Location:Bellingham

Tuesday, July 3, 2012

Multimodal day

We started our day in Gibsons in the rain. Experts say the sun is on they way! Before catching the ferry Norm wanted to check out Camp Elphinstone where he was a camp counsellor almost 48 years ago.



It's still there! We had barely had a chance to explore the area when "security" people came by to see what our business was. So after a quick look around we headed to catch the ferry to Horseshoe Bay.
From Horseshoe Bay we took Marine Drive to West Vancouver. What a beautiful drive twisting up and down through rainforest to the sea. Although it was narrow in spots, most drivers were polite when passing. Once we hit the commercial area of West Van it was so busy. Fortunately Norm found a bike path along Ambleside Park, Hollyburn Sailing Club and under the Lions Gate bridge. What a relief from the highway.



As we biked through the business section of North Van, Norm found a delightful lunch spot, the Daisy Cafe. We had yummy homemade soup and panini. The owner was so helpful he even drew a map for us to find our way to the Seabus.
Once on the Seabus we arrived at the Vancouver Waterfront Terminal ready to catch the West Coast Express train to Mission. Having bikes made escalators difficult to maneuver so we used the elevator.






What a great way to get out to the valley and not having to bike through the city. We relaxed on the train doing all we could not to fall asleep on the extremely smooth and quiet ride. Mission is where I was born and where I left the day after I graduated. So deciding to bike on to Abbotsford was fine by me! The weather started to improve and we were blessed with sunshine and pushed along with a strong wind over the Mission bridge. What a great ride along flat roads with wide shoulders, except for that last long steep hill to our accommodations for the night. There are times when you are biking and you don't think you can do it, it's too steep, too difficult but you keep going and when you make it, it sure feels good! 28 1/2 miles biking today. We are loving the holiday and the Sun is on its way.
So did find all our modals of transportation today? Bike, ferry, Seabus, elevator, train and of course by foot. Tomorrow USA!

Location:Abbotsford

Monday, July 2, 2012

A rainy day in Gibsons ***** note to ignore all photos on right side, left over from past trips:)

It says sunshine coast but that wasn't the case today. No problem we had a great day in spite of the weather.
Started our day with a breakfast of yoghurt and fresh fruit, rhubarb muffins and strawberry custard crepes with bacon, tea and coffee. With that amount of food we should be biking! Evelyn picked us up at 9:30 and off we began exploring the area. First we checked out their new house. They have a really nice, quiet and relaxing home at the end of a cul de sac. Good choice. Next we headed into the town of Gibsons checking out some beaches along the way.



Here we are with a giant stump on Secret beach washed ashore in a big storm earlier this decade, and Norman, Evelyn and Rozanne picking their favorite rocks.


Not quite beach weather but still fun exploring. We got back in the car and found some unbelievable and fascinating places. The first one had objects made from all sorts of recycled machines or any bits of metal, from bike chains to shovels to old gear wheels. We were speechless looking at the amazing metal folk art created by artist Axel Stenzl from chains, car parts, broken machinery, old garden tools, wrenches, even deceased propane tanks. There are hundreds of these placed amid the cedars and firs of his property, and we've seen nothing like them anywhere else.














There were so many it is hard to describe or do justice with photos. We were impressed.




Next we toured a garden equal to Butchart Gardens but on a smaller scale. Unbelievable amount of work done by mostly one woman, Olga Towert. She says this is her last year at Creekside Gardens, but has said that for the past ten years.
Of course being in Gibsons Norm had to see the home of the Beachcombers, a show he loved to watch with his kids for years.






For those not a fan of the show, this is Nick's log salvage boat from the show. Bring back any memories? It was the biggest thing to hit Gibsons, and they still play up the town's connections with the show, two decades since it ended.
We finished our tour by having coffee at Roberts Creek, a walk along Davis Bay and a drive through Sechelt and back to Gibsons for a yummy salmon burger at Gramma's.
Tomorrow we will be back on the bikes taking the ferry to Horsehoe bay, biking Marine Drive to the foot of Lonsdale in North Vancouver to catch the SeaBus across Vancouver harbour, then the West Coast Express commuter train -- yes, they take bicycles -- to Mission, Mary's hometown out in the Fraser Valley. Stay tuned to see where we go for there.

Location:Sunshine Coast

On the Road again

86 Miles! That is the distance we have travelled by bike since leaving home in Metchosin on Saturday.


We biked to the Brentwood Bay ferry via the Goose and Lochside trail.



Once off the ferry and a coffee stop at the Rusticana coffee kiosk in Mill Bay, we biked to Cobble Hill for our first night's stay, 34 miles for the day. And what a first night stay! An outstanding bed and breakfast, actually at our friends, Leslie Jo and Phil. We were greeted with yummy appetizers, hot stuffed curried chicken canapes, cheese pate with home-baked rain coast crisps and rice crackers. Dinner included BBQ steak (cooked to perfection), twice-baked cheesey potatoes, freshly-picked Romaine lettuce in a Caesar salad and finished off with local strawberries in a freshly baked pie. Not to be outdone was the following breakfast of yoghurt, fresh strawberries with lemon ricotta cheese pancakes with maple syrup. Did I mention that Leslie Jo is a home ec teacher foods teacher:)
Off we set for Nanaimo at 9am with full tummies and maybe a little slower but we made it to Chemainus by 10:45.



We took the island highway from Cobble Hill through Duncan because it was a Sunday morning and shouldn't be too busy, also it was mostly downhill! Great wide shoulders to bike on in most parts. Only trouble we had was in Duncan when an asshole man in a pickup truck, cut Norm off then yelled at Norm calling him a jackass! He seemed to think that going right just in front off us would save him probably 2 seconds. Norm and the idiot exchanged a few choice words like "learn to drive" and "get off the road". We left the main highway just past Duncan for a wonderful scenic bike ride through Chemainus (time for coffee and snack), Saltair, Ladysmith (a little bit of highway biking there), then off the highway again and through Cassidy, Cedar, North Oyster, and into Nanaimo. Made it to Nanaimo by 1:30, better time that we thought.
With time to spare until the 3:10 ferry we went to the local nearby pub, Millers, for lunch and drinks. We definitely quenched our thirst.
The ferry to first Horseshoe Bay and then on to Langdale got us into Gibsons about 6.30.



We biked towards Port Mellon up a long steep hill but not far to our bed and breakfast, Arcturus, pleasant room, classy bathroom and a beautiful view of the ocean and mountains.
My sister, Evelyn came by to say hello and take us into Gibsons so we could go out for dinner and celebrate our 10th wedding anniversary. We had a nice Italian dinner, glass of wine and fine conversation. Then we walked the 5km home again. Now that means we biked 48 miles earlier in the day and another 5 km walk! We will remember this anniversary for sure! If we weren't cycling and walking, we'd weigh 10 pounds more for sure.



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Location:Gibsons